Key points:
- Dr. Nedaa Al Jasim, CEO and founder of Apex Medical Device Design LLC, created CurlRelax™, the world’s first ingestible treatment for relaxing curly hair.
- As a medical doctor with 40+ years of experience, she combined her expertise in allergy, immunology, and biology to innovate in the beauty industry.
- CurlRelax™ targets an unmet need in the Black haircare market, offering a safer, science-backed alternative to harsh chemical treatments.
“Science is not just about finding answers; it’s about asking the right questions.” For Dr. Nedaa Al Jasim, that question was deceptively simple: What if curly hair care could go beyond the surface?
In an industry that has relied on the same harsh chemical treatments for decades, Dr. Nedaa envisioned a radical alternative—one that delves into the biology of hair follicles and redefines how beauty meets science.
This curiosity led her to found Apex Medical Device Design LLC, a trailblazing research and innovation company. With over forty years of medical experience and a strong passion for discovery, Dr. Nedaa created CurlRelax™—the first-ever ingestible treatment for relaxing curly hair. Unlike the harsh chemical treatments used since the 1960s, CurlRelax™ offers a safe, herbal solution. This unique treatment serves people who are often overlooked in the hair care market.
This is the story of a woman who turned questions into breakthroughs and setbacks into stepping stones. Whether it’s decoding the mysteries of hair follicles or designing a next-gen breast implant, Dr. Nedaa’s journey proves that innovation thrives when science and purpose converge.
The USA Leaders: Can you share more about your background and how it shaped your passion for research and innovation?
Dr. Nedaa: I am a medical doctor with over forty years of experience, specializing in allergy and immunology. My education and professional journey took place overseas, where I honed my skills and developed a keen interest in research. Over time, I noticed how sophisticated today’s consumers are, always asking: what are the new options in the medical aesthetics field? Their curiosity sparked my own, pushing me to explore advancements in the cosmeceutical field.
Even after retiring, my passion for science and innovation never waned. I founded Apex Medical Device Design LLC, a women-owned, pre-seed startup focused on developing science-based cosmeceutical products.
This venture allowed me to combine my expertise with my curiosity, leading to the creation of patented inventions like DefyGravity™, a breast implant, and CurlRelax™, the first-in-class ingestible treatment for relaxing curly hair. Both inventions are patent pending in the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) and internationally, safeguarding our niche market.
The USA Leaders: Could you elaborate on the story behind Apex Medical Device Design LLC and its innovative approach to research and invention?
Dr. Nedaa: Apex is a research and invention (R&I) company with a unique business model. We initiate new product ideas grounded in science, secure patents for our innovations, and collaborate with companies and research centers to bring these ideas to life. The story of Apex Medical Device Design LLC began in 2015 when I started designing and prototyping the DefyGravity™ breast implant. This design mimics the anatomy of a youthful breast, aiming to enhance upper breast fullness by relocating the center of gravity.
Our patent lawyer advised me to register a company as the patent applicant at the USPTO. Following this sound advice, I established Apex Medical Device Design LLC and named our first innovation DefyGravity™. We were fortunate to work with Michael G. Monyok, Attorney at Law, at Meyers, Unkovic & Scott LLP in Pittsburgh. Michael’s professionalism, knowledge, and punctuality were invaluable during the patent filing process and communication with the USPTO, as well as in securing international patent protection.
The USA Leaders: How did Apex navigate the challenges faced by DefyGravity™, and what led to the development of CurlRelax™?
Dr. Nedaa: We invested significant effort in developing the DefyGravity™ breast implant. In 2019, we attended the FDA panel for general and plastic surgery devices. We were excited to be invited by the American Society of Cosmetic Breast Surgery to present DefyGravity™ at their 35th Annual Workshop in California. However, the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted our plans. It stopped aesthetic surgeries and delayed our product launch. The US patent for DefyGravity™ is still active, but the invention has not yet hit the market.
In the following years, I focused on a new project called CurlRelax™. It is a safe, herbal nanoemulsion made from Nigella sativa seeds. It helps relax curly hair from the root, providing a unique solution for the black haircare market. I started deciphering the complex biology of cell receptors and mediators that underlie hair types to tackle this real-world problem.
This product is patent-pending in the United States, giving our company a significant first-mover advantage internationally. Additionally, the CurlRelax™ patent is co-held by its co-inventor, Noor Ahmed, a skilled chemical engineer and a graduate of the University of Washington, who is also my daughter.
The USA Leaders: The black haircare market has relied on legacy treatments for decades. Can you share your insights on the challenges faced by this community and how CurlRelax™ addresses these needs?
Dr. Nedaa: For many years, the black haircare market has relied on harsh chemical treatments for curly and coily hair, dating back to the 1960s. These treatments break down the keratin protein in the hair shaft, leading to dryness, frizz, and systemic side effects. This creates problems for consumers who spend a lot of time on haircare, wash their hair infrequently, and often buy multiple expensive products. Many describe their relationship with their hair as a love-hate situation, as noted in “The Texture Gap White Paper” by Carra Labs (2023).
Hair loss is another growing concern in this community, primarily due to tight styling practices like braids, which cause traction alopecia. This unmet market need sparked my curiosity and enthusiasm to be part of a new product development.
To address this market gap, we need to understand the current market offerings. Product development in this field typically falls into two domains: the hair shaft domain, managed by the beauty and personal care industry, and the hair follicle domain, which focuses on medical research and pharmaceutical treatments. I am proud to be the first mover pioneering pharmaceutical and biological research into the hair follicle domain within the beauty industry.
CurlRelax™ is a safe herbal treatment you can take to improve your hair. It helps reduce the mechanical stress on the hair oil glands and boosts nourishment and blood flow to the hair follicles. These benefits make hair care rituals easier and more effective. With CurlRelax™, you can enjoy healthier hair. This product fills a gap in the market specifically for the Black community.
The USA Leaders: Your hypothesis links the contraction of the Arrector Pili muscle to hair follicle curvature. Could you elaborate on the science behind this?
Dr. Nedaa: CurlRelax™ is a science-driven product combining medicine, pharmacology, and biology. I worked on it to help improve our understanding of science through what I call “vertical invention.” This method builds on new observations step by step to create a clear understanding that aims to enhance human well-being. My work involved months of gathering and connecting bits of knowledge from extensive research, along with my own experience, to form a novel hypothesis.
I hypothesize that the mechanical stress on curved hair follicles originates from the contracted Arrector Pili muscle. This is detailed in my paper, “Curly Hair Follicle is Sculpted by a Contracted Arrector Pili Muscle: A Hypothesis with Treatment Implication” (DOI: 10.36648/2393-8862.11.S1.01). Smooth muscles, which regulate organ function, are central to this concept. My earlier research on hypersensitive airways and smooth muscle dilators, combined with my husband, Dr. Zuhair’s dermatological expertise, led me to investigate the role of the Arrector Pili muscle in hair curvature.
I propose that “selective” smooth muscle relaxers can effectively relax curly and coily hair. By “selective,” I refer to targeting specific mechanisms, such as studying genes regulating curly hair phenotypes, conducting functional genomics, identifying Arrector Pili muscle receptors, and using artificial intelligence (AI) to identify plant-based molecules that interact with these receptors. CurlRelax™ is the outcome of this innovative approach.
The USA Leaders: Your unique 3-step manufacturing process is key to CurlRelax™. Could you please elaborate more on this process?
Dr. Nedaa: The development of new treatments can fall under the “product-by-process” category, highlighting the importance of novelty and the industrial applicability of the manufacturing method. Our patented process for nano-emulsifying herbal oil utilizes the unique extraction kinetics of the oil, resulting in tiny droplets suspended in a water phase containing emulsifiers, specifically saponins. This method allows for spontaneous emulsification, which reduces the need for high concentrations of emulsifiers that can render products unsuitable for human consumption.
The key innovation of our process is that all the ingredients come from a single herb that is naturally compatible, preventing the separation of oils from water. This capability extends the shelf life of the product and eliminates the tedious search for multiple suitable emulsifiers. The development of this process was co-invented by Noor Ahmed.
The USA Leaders: Being at the helm of the organization, what are your core responsibilities? Also, share your notable achievements so far.
Dr. Nedaa: As mentioned earlier, I am a solo inventor working alongside a co-inventor. On the invention side, I am responsible for generating project ideas, planning and executing research, drafting the patent application, collaborating with our company lawyer to respond to examination reports from the USPTO and the World Intellectual Property Organization (PCT), and driving the patent towards the grant phase.
On the business side, I manage the business needs by building websites and maintaining our social media presence while also securing funding for the project.
I take pride in the fact that my patents were granted after the first examination. This shows that I write my applications thoroughly and intelligently. Our PCT patent application went through an international examination, which found that the claims were new, inventive, and practical. The application was published in the PCT Gazette on January 12, 2023, and we have now entered the international phase. Additionally, it was published in the USPTO Official Gazette (#US 2024/0307474 A1) in 2024. This means we will soon receive the patent grant.
The USA Leaders: How do you plan to educate consumers and build trust around CurlRelax™?
Dr. Nedaa: The current trend is to educate consumers through social media. We will collaborate with focused groups interested in our field, including the Black community and the cosmetic industry. I will also be publishing more research papers in medical and scientific journals.
A key discussion topic is understanding that curly hair is shaped in the follicle, with approximately 100,000 hair follicles on the human scalp. The optimal way to treat curly hair is through an ingestible formula. Scientific advancements should meet customer needs, so let us embrace the changes that fulfill our requirements and desires.
The USA Leaders: Managing an innovative biotech project is no small feat. Could you share the challenges you faced and how you overcame them?
Dr. Nedaa: The primary challenges in managing this project were the limitations in time and resources. Years of painstaking research were required to achieve the results we see today. This project is multifaceted, lengthy, and demanding, but I was committed to maintaining momentum, especially to secure patents that would protect the market monopoly.
A turning point came when my cousin, Ban Al-Kaisi, asked, “Why don’t you publish your invention in a medical journal to reach a broader audience and start working on social media?” I hadn’t considered that before, but I acted on her suggestion. The hypothesis was first published on Preprints.org, a multidisciplinary platform that isn’t peer-reviewed but allows feedback from readers (DOI: 10.20944/preprints202409.1791.v1).
On November 5th, I received a congratulatory message from Preprints.org for achieving 99 downloads, and they offered to promote it further on social media. This exposure led to being contacted by the American Journal of Pharmacology and Pharmacotherapy, a prestigious publication known for its high-quality scientific content. Their review described my hypothesis as scientifically intriguing, innovative, and thought-provoking.
Now, I am honored to be featured in the “Innovative Women in Biotech: Leading the Future of Healthcare” issue of The USA Leaders, a leading platform for entrepreneurs and business leaders in the USA.
The USA Leaders: How did your family contribute to overcoming these challenges and advancing your project?
Dr. Nedaa: As a solo inventor, I relied heavily on my family for support. When the idea was still in its infancy, I discussed it with my father, a professor of business. He told me, “This idea allows you to create value for the company, shareholders, and consumers. To protect your competitive advantage, go and file a patent.” His advice became the foundation of my strategy.
During this difficult time in my innovation journey, my son Ali, a talented chemical engineer, was always inspiring and supportive all the way through. Throughout this journey, my sister Hayfa and brother-in-law Dr. Numan Md., both medical associate professors working overseas, served as my scientific advisors. Their expertise and encouragement were invaluable.
Moreover, my family invested in the project financially and emotionally, providing support every step of the way. I was also supported by my best friend Mayada, with whom I discuss everyday issues.
The USA Leaders: What is Apex’s plan to bring CurlRelax™ to the market, and how do you aim to secure resources for its development?
Dr. Nedaa: Apex’s primary goal is to launch CurlRelax™ and conduct proof-of-concept studies using artificial intelligence (AI). However, as a pre-seed company, we need financial support to continue this journey. We are actively seeking partnerships with philanthropists and angel investors.
Additionally, we aim to collaborate with major R&D-focused cosmeceutical companies that offer opportunities for bold innovators and changemaker startups in the field of beauty science. Companies like L’Oréal, which foster partnerships for innovative beauty technologies, are prime examples of potential collaborators.
The Unilever company has supported the only published research on the biology and genetics of curly hair in the South African population (Westgate et al., 2017). Unilever experts are pushing the boundaries of science and shaping the future of innovation by leading cutting-edge fields such as biotechnology. They are pioneering ways to advance science without testing on animals.
We are also open to working with technology incubators that specialize in developing and launching first-to-market beauty technologies created by startups. Alternatively, we may partner with contract manufacturing organizations (CMOs) to produce CurlRelax™.
Specifically, we are looking for CMOs that manufacture standardized herbal products or over-the-counter (OTC) products with fermentation capabilities. These facilities must adhere to good manufacturing practices (GMPs). For example, the Sami-Sabinsa Group offers custom development and commercial-scale manufacturing, making it a potential partner.
The USA Leaders: How will AI play a role in CurlRelax™’s development and research?
Dr. Nedaa: AI will be integral to our proof-of-concept research. The best approach involves conducting computer-aided target identification (in silico protein-protein interaction studies) to analyze curly hair follicles and understand the interaction between the Arrector Pili muscle and herbal small molecules. These studies will enable us to identify specific targets and refine the efficacy of CurlRelax™, paving the way for groundbreaking advancements in haircare innovation.
The USA Leaders: What are your thoughts on work-life balance? How do you achieve it? We’d also like to know about your hobbies and interests beyond the cabin.
Dr. Nedaa: I am a mother of four kids and a grandmother of six whom I love and care about. I communicate with them frequently on social media and ask about their studies and interests. They consider me as their role model, my eldest two grandkids are in medical school and the third is interested also.
For my last birthday, they bought me an Oscar Best Mother Souvenir and a crown for being the best mom. I keep a vivid relationship with my friends and bigger family by calling and sharing personal and general news on WhatsApp.
My hobbies include capturing beauty where it is unexpected. I am a lover of nature, and love “close-up photography”, so when I see a beautiful tree, I go and photograph a single leaf and search for the beauty in this close-up picture. I also like to photograph “nature arrangements” when flowers and trees are arranged in eye-catching harmony and composition.
The USA Leaders: What advice would you offer to young inventors embarking on their journey?
Dr. Nedaa: I’d like to share a few tips that I’ve learned along the way. First, take time to understand your inner strengths. For me, it was the power of observation and a keen attention to detail, which allowed me to retain information for years.
Ask yourself: how strong is your passion? You’ll need it to sustain years of effort. Also, consider whether your passion is backed by sufficient knowledge and experience in your chosen field.
The internet will be your primary resource when starting out, so choose your search terms carefully to get precise answers. When you’re ready to file a patent application, remember that the USPTO offers programs like the Patent Pro Bono Program, which provides free legal assistance for inventors and small businesses.
Quotes
“Ask yourself: how strong is your passion? You’ll need it to sustain years of effort.”
“We aspire to be the leading pharma company to revolutionize the black hair care relaxing and nourishing market by developing ingestible, safe herbal products.”
Also Read: Innovative Women in Biotech: Leading the Future of Healthcare to watch in 2025